What Emily In Paris teaches you about high-end fashion
In the ’80s Yves Saint Laurent and Claude Montana’s stiff shoulders descended into nipped, waspish waists with narrow sleeves. The character of Camille wears the structured blazers in a more relaxed fashion, rather than as corporate armour, allowing herself to be enveloped by the oversized cut, with sleeves continuing the exaggerated proportions.
The look is brilliant standing, but it’s worth throwing your jacket on the back of a chair when seated, as Camille demonstrates in the first episode of the second season when the seriously structured shoulders almost rise to ear level.
Lesson 3: Prints in proportion
The plethora of prints Emily braves in Paris is a visual antidote to the sea of beige, black and denim usually encountered in the cafés and bars of the Marais. The character’s courage in mixing prints should be celebrated, but the result is often overwhelming, especially when layered over Lily Collins’ petite frame.
Wearing a ribbed Versace knitted polo above high-waisted vintage Mugler shorts (with the prerequisite hint of midriff), Emily excels. The complementary colours, proportion of the print and similar strobing effect deliver a considered clash with a cool result.
Later in the season her patchwork mini-dress by Dolce & Gabbana is already visual heartburn, with polka dots and disparate floral prints, but adding a printed Christian Louboutin bag and a bucket hat sends the ensemble budget north of $5000. In every way possible, it’s too much.
Lesson 4: Accessories in extreme
Patricia Field understands the power of accessories from her time on Sex and the City, having elevated Manolo Blahniks, Fendi baguette bags and name necklaces to bestseller status. But for every baguette there was a bandana, bandeau top or embellished scarf that failed to capture shoppers’ imaginations.
In Emily in Paris it is the oversized sunglasses and knee-high boots that succeed in stealing the spotlight. If knee-high was not enough of a statement on its own, in Emily in Paris the boots come in animal print, lilac and pink tulle.
Be warned. Look for a sturdy heel if you want to survive something as harsh as Paris cobblestones. I once spent months in the Vogue fashion office listening to a stylist plan her first outing at Paris Fashion Week in a pair of expensive Balenciaga boots. The heel snapped the moment she stepped out of the taxi, leaving her hopping to the first show.
Sunglasses in the series come from a variety of labels, including Valentino and Miu Miu. Look for bold, geometric shapes with oversized proportions. Nineties skinny styles have failed to register on the left bank, with Emily and friends preferring an update on Audrey Hepburn’s covered up approach as seen in the classic films Two For The Road and How To Steal A Million.
Finally, beware fingerless gloves. Making sense of Emily’s adherence to fingerless gloves is the most challenging aspect of season two of the series. Was she a fan of Michael Jackson? Had Joan Collins warned her about the ageing effects of the sun on your hands?
The answer is much simpler. Patricia Fields has collaborated with Seymoure Gloves on a collection of colourful styles, starting at $US298 ($AU413). This is one for the fans, or committed electric scooter riders.
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