The origins of the Bengali tradition of ‘cha-ta’ may be colonial

Chingri chop with Bengali chai.
| Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Cha-ta is a phrase that conveys so much more than what you would expect from four little syllables. Chaye-shaye is a popular phrase in north India, indicating tea and a snack — possibly a biscuit. In Bengal, as I learnt during my trips there, cha-ta promises a feast. Cha, of course, is tea, but the word ta is a foodie’s delight. When a host asks you to stop by for cha-ta (same as chaye-shaye), I would suggest you skip lunch, for the ta can be anything from samosas to chops and cutlets and yellow peas enriched with meat.

If there is nothing at home, you are likely to get a bowl of puffed rice with minced onions and green chillies, mixed with a bit of mustard oil, and, if you are lucky, some grated or chopped coconut. Most guests who are invited to tea are usually fed a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian snacks. Since Kolkata was where the colonials had a long stay, the food-loving Bengali may have picked up the habit of an elaborate tea from the Brits known for high tea.

There was a time in Delhi when many of these delicacies — say beetroot chop, or chicken cutlet — were available only in Chittaranjan Park. But in the last few years, several eateries offering all this — and more — have opened in different parts of Delhi. A friend recently told me about a delivery outfit called Bhojonroshika in Vaishali. I ordered a meal from there (the prawn malai curry was superb, as was the kosha chicken), but the snacky dish that my friends loved was the vegetable cutlet. The stuffing of boiled potatoes, mashed with grated carrots and peas, had been sautéed with light masalas, coated with a maida batter, crumbed and fried. A fitting ta for cha. It was just the right ‘ta’ for tea.

Mangsher ghughni with Bengali chai.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

They also have on the menu dishes such as prawn chops, fish fingers and mangsher ghugni or mutton ghugni — a flavoured dish of yellow peas cooked with keema. Mutton ghugni is made with boiled yellow peas are cooked with mutton keema, onion, tomatoes, potato chunks, whole spices and a Bengali spice mix called bhaja masala. This is then served, garnished with chopped onions, coriander leaves and a splash of lemon juice.

While surfing the Net I discovered Appayan in IP Extension from where I bought some vegetable chops, stuffed with grated beetroot and fried peanuts. It had a spiky vermicelli coating, which added to the texture and the taste. I enjoyed their samosas, which had a spicy potato filling, but found the nimki (a flaky and fried maida triangle) not up to the mark.

Nimki and samosa with Bengali chai.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

One of my favourite places is New Annapurna in Hauz Khas. Its fare of snacks is just right for tea. The potato samosas are delicious, and in winter they do a special cauliflower floret samosa. Another popular place in Chittaranjan Park — called Dadu Cutlet Shop (Grandpa’s Cutlet Shop) — has a dish called dimer devil, which is like scotch eggs. One or half a boiled egg is coated with minced meat, crumbed, and then fried. Sinful, but wonderful. Most chops and samosas cost ₹15-25.

These small eateries and sweetshops have opened up a new world for me. My ta — as the texters say for ‘thank you’ — to ta.