Pleated to perfection

Pleats are once again having a moment in the fashion world. Designers are bringing back classic styles and presenting them in refreshing forms. Pleated dresses and skirts have enjoyed the patronage of fashion icons for years, and one can see playful, fun versions of pleats making it to celebrity wardrobes as well as the global ramp.

The classic pleated dress inspired by Greeks was brought into being by Mariano Fortuny, a versatile a Spanish fashion designer. The dress dates back to 1907 and was known for its fine silk pleat flow from the shoulder to the body. “This modern and body-conscious form was a clear indication of new directions in the 20th century fashion,” writes Taschen in the book, Fashion History. Later in 1976, designer Issey Miyake presented a piece of clothing inspired by Japanese clothing – he made the pieces in a contrary style as he sewed first and then put the pleats afterwards. In his spring summer 1995 collection, there was a clear-pink pleated polyester monofilament coat appliquéd with red, blue and green pieces. It made a special place for pleats in the fashion spectacle thereafter.

Today, as fashion weeks celebrate comebacks, pleated garments own a special place. Designers with a curator’s eye for splicing past and present are the ones breathing newness in the style with variations of knife pleats and box pleats. The recent collection by Dior features pleated dresses. Closer home, designer Ruchika Sachedva’s collections plays with box pleats, designer Vaishali S’s collections also showcase pleats, while another fashion brand, Lovebirds toys with inverted pleated. “Pleats perfectly fit the needs of the hour: elegance combined with comfort. Pleats are a classic. Cordings, another version of pleats always make a statement because they allows me to create stunning silhouettes that recreate nature and flow of energy,” says designer Vaishali S.

Designers say that pleats are here to stay. “Pleats are versatile; they can make a boring piece of clothing fun. They are an internal part of clothing which has been prevalent in Indian and western style since forever. We call it ‘chunats’ and you can see it in suits and even saris. Today, there are technological advancements and pleats have many variations,” says designer Rina Dhaka.

You can style pleats in myriad forms. “Pleated skirts have made a huge comeback. You can style a mini skirt with a cute pair of socks and sneakers. This is the way I style mine! Pleated midi skirts look great with knee high boots and a thin belt at the waist. I would avoid knee length pleated skirts,” suggests stylist Meagan Concessio.

Types of pleats

Knife pleats: These are firmly pressed handmade pleats, which are all facing one direction.

Accordion pleats: These are machine made knife pleats. The pleats formed by the machine remain intact even after washing and ironing.

Box pleats: Box pleats are basically knife pleats formed in opposite directions.

Godet Pleat: It is a flared shape that uses triangular fabric inserts to give the garment extra movement. The skirt has a fitted upper part, with godet panels inserted at even intervals around the hem, giving it movement.

Inverted pleats: These pleats are formed by placing two knife pleats facing each other.