There is no truer measure of a food’s popularity than the race to modify or reinterpret it. Through that lens, the michelada rules. It is the monarch of day-drinking in Southern California and part of the general buzz of a perfect L.A. summer.
The origins of the michelada remain unsettled, but most agree that the beer drink originally contained only lime and salt — this is what is largely known as a chelada today. A michelada preparada or a michelada cubana is what came about when salsas and sauces were added.
Michelada-serving restaurants often invent catchy, outlandish names for their house variations of the drink. Let them, but don’t hold them as standards. Here, in general form, are the five basic food groups, if you will, in the universe of the michelada.
Chelada
(Susana Sanchez / Los Angeles Times)
Salt, lime, ice, lager. Best served in a frosted mug with a salt rim.
Michelada
(Susana Sanchez / Los Angeles Times)
A chelada with a salt and chile powder rim, usually the condiment Tajín, and any combination of umami agents, such as Clamato, salsa inglesa (Worcestershire sauce), salsa Maggi, Tabasco or Valentina hot sauce. Also known as a michechelada prepada or a michelada cubana.
Gomichela
(Susana Sanchez / Los Angeles Times)
A sweeter michelada with a tamarindo and chamoy candy sauce rim, instead of salt and chile. Often served with skewers of sour gummy bears (thus the “gomi”), saladitos or spicy watermelon gummy candy. In some preparations, the candy rim is coated in lightly toasted sesame seeds. Maybe finish it with a salty lollipop?
Michelagua (nonalcoholic)
(Susana Sanchez / Los Angeles Times)
The michelada without lager, using the mixes and preparations of beer miches to complement an agua fresca, usually an agua de mango or an agua de piña y espinaca (pineapple and spinach), or cucumber and lime. Can be dressed with a skewer of cherries or other fruits, a chamoy candy straw, wedges of pineapple and so on.
Michelada botanera
(Susana Sanchez / Los Angeles Times)
This is a michelada with seafood on top — lots, if you like. Start with skewers of cooked shrimp and mango or cucumber; or shrimp or cucumber pieces wedged onto the rim. In more extravagant variations, a whole plastic platter of a mariscos cocktail, including pulpo, scallops, even oysters, is laid over the michelada glass, with incisions in the container so that the mariscos’ juices can drip down into the beer. These are miches that turn into meals.
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