Benarasi saree becomes elections issue in UP; Weavers seek higher daily wages, incentives to promote exports

Renowned all over the world for their intricate brocade work and rich embroidery, Banarasi saree has been at the heart of India’s major cultural goods exports. However, the pandemic has hit the export of these sarees and India’s handloom industry has felt it’s burnt the most. Benarasi sari weavers recently urged the Narendra Modi Government to take steps to improve their wages and promote exports of the product to revive their livelihood.

Prime Minister Narendra Modi will be staying in his Lok Sabha constituency Varanasi for three days until March 5, the last day of canvassing for the seventh phase of elections.

Weavers of Benarasi saree live in the narrow lanes of Lallapura, Bajardiha, Madanpura areas. Peeli Kothi is 200-year-old weaver colony that has inspired many designer labels. Nevertheless powerlooms are fast replacing the hard labour of the weavers and their craftsmanship. The weavers now want the government to take steps to promote their business further the ‘Vocal for Local’ campaign already in place. The weavers also seeked for central assistance to revive their business.

Arif Ansari who has been working as a weaver in Benaras for the last 40 years told ANI that at present there are just 5,000 bunkars in Benaras from the earlier 1.5 lakh artisans. Low income has made their seek other employment options or go for jobs at the powerlooms. Ansari further informed that the daily wage of the artisan is mearly Rs 100 after hard labour.

Benarasi sarees are woven in two ways one through powerloom and other by hand . The ones woven manually takes 15 days to be made for the lighter designs and the more heavy intricate designs needs up to two months of hard labour on one saree.

Talking about government’s contribution to the weavers, Arif informed that a wooden stand is given to weave sarees . If it breaks, the weaver has to pay 20 per cent while the government gives remaining 80 per cent for a new one. Wit ‘old-age pension’ it becomes difficult for the weavers to thrive in such circumstances.

Arif further mentioned that Yogi Adityanath has promised an increase in pension to Rs 1, 000 after the upcoming UP Assembly elections. He further demanded electricity to be free or at much lower rate for the weavers. Further he asked for increased daily wages and medical allowances. In the end Arif expressed gratitude to Prime Minister for celebrating Handloom Day and encouraging handloom produce.

Mukhtar Ahmed, a powerloom worker asked for a higher margin for sarees and daily wages. Currently they make Rs 50 per saree, he said. To make their ends meet they need to work at multiple shops. Lallapura of Benaras has 2,500 factories with power looms.