When it comes to champagne bubbles, does size matter?

I’m told small bubbles are best in champagne. Is the size of the bubble really a sign of quality?
E.W.K., Randwick, NSW

A: It takes more than bubbles to make a great champagne or sparkling wine. It’s the quality of the grapes that matters most, which is partly a function of where they were grown, but also the skill of the winemaker.

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Assuming we’re talking about high-quality fizz – say, vintage champagne (from the Champagne region of north-east France) – then bubble size is certainly significant. Smaller bubbles don’t necessarily denote a higher quality wine, though; more accurately, they’re an indicator of a wine’s maturity.

Bubble size is a function of age. Bubbles are finer in wines which feature less dissolved CO², and CO² decreases slightly as the wine ages. High-end sparkling wine is sold only after long maturation on its yeast lees inside the bottle in which it was fermented. By law, vintage champagne must have been matured in its bottle for at least three years before sale. Most vintage wines have four to five years and the best 10 or more. I recently tasted Lanson’s new Noble Blanc de Blancs 2004, which was released at 18 years old. The bubbles were super fine – and it’s a great wine.

Bubble size is also related to the impurities in the wine; these are microscopic solids that can remain after fermentation. The longer a champagne ages on its lees, the more likely any residual proteins, tannins, yeast cells and tartrates will be deposited in the sediment. These are then removed by the riddling and disgorgement process.

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Tiny bubbles look nicer: finer things are always better than coarse. Just compare a cheap young fizz with an aged sparkling wine, such as Arras Grand Vintage or Deviation Road Beltana. You’ll notice the bubbles are big, more like those in carbonated water.

Sparkling water has big bubbles that create an aggressive fizz on the palate. Finer bubbles give a smoother, more subtle sensation, like a caress of the tongue. This is why small bubbles are valued in champagne. They impart a creamy effect. Matter of fact, I feel like some now … Merry Christmas!