The new ‘rules’ of formal dress bend the codes, without breaking them

Edwina Forest of mega-brand Aje has captured the Australian party aesthetic better than most over the past 15 years with some of her design signatures: a puffed sleeve here, a cut-out or hand-painted print there.

The brand’s 15th-anniversary collection, to be shown today at Sydney Modern, will undoubtedly include several showstopping dresses. But even the most formal pieces carry a sense of “undone”, which Forest says stops them from being too stiff or limiting their wearability.

“They’re pieces you can get away with wearing again but also feel unique … and make a statement without being too loud or overwhelming,” she says.

Old ideas of formal wear, particularly the notion of wearing a garment only once, are as outdated as dress codes themselves, Forest says. “I don’t think it’s financially something many [customers] can afford, but also the lifestyles we lead necessitate these pieces must last for longer.”

As for hosts scattering black tie dress codes around like confetti, Clarke has some choice words: if the venue doesn’t warrant it, don’t do it. “A dress code is one part of an event. But everything has to be at the same level.”

Former hairdresser turned designer Nathaniel Youkhana, who showed his collection on Monday, says contemporary formal dress is more about an attitude or level of sophistication than strict criteria. “It can mean anything from secondhand dresses and vintage designer blazers paired with tailored pants or skirts and vintage shoes, to bowties and made-to-measure ensembles, or even full-length couture gowns. Ultimately, the definition of formal wear is entirely subjective,” the 32-year-old says.

Kimber agrees more clients are coming to him with an occasion, or destination in mind, and asking for an outfit that fits. He says his new collection, which adds his signature “elevated casual” twist to formal dress, is very much derived from requests from his customers.

His advice? Take a risk with one item, be it a bold jacket or pant, and keep the rest relatively neutral. “There has always been this idea of recreating what evening wear is, breaking those rules, bringing colour into it. But still doing it in an elegant way – that’s the key.”