The day racewear died: The Melbourne Cup is about fashion now

The death of racewear has been drawn out since 1962, when British supermodel Jean Shrimpton shocked Melbourne matrons at Derby Day in a sleeveless white mini-dress, not bothering with a hat, gloves or stockings. It has limped along for decades with the encouragement of the lucrative Fashions on the Field competition, celebrating its 60th anniversary.

This year Fashions on the Field applied the defibrillators to racewear by opening the Best Dressed and Best Suited categories to all genders, but it’s time to say goodbye gracefully. Entrants demonstrate effort and a vintage elegance but the competition’s relevance to fashion is as great as bridesmaids’ and debutante dresses.

It did give Victoria Racing Club ambassador Christian Wilkins the opportunity to wear a Gucci tiara matching Waterhouse’s.

The British at Ascot racecourse still get racewear right, but centuries of tradition and the hat-wearing experience of the royal family doesn’t translate in Australia’s casual climate, where green and gold pass for national colours.

The resilient Cup Day crowd made it clear that people want to dress for a day of gambling and gambolling, and the likes of Waterhouse, Rogers and television host Melissa Leong in a Gucci suit with a Stephen Jones hat, do it well.

Men have dodged the racewear rules for years, with a clean suit and polished shoes carrying them over the finish line, but even they can benefit from scratching the dated label.

“It’s time for a change,” says actor and motivational speaker Sam Webb, who was turned away from the Birdcage in a blazer, cropped trousers and open shirt without a tie.

“I’m a little dubious of the rules,” Webb says. “But I’m going to find myself a bow tie, get myself in there and make a fool of myself.”

Until racewear rests in peace, Webb won’t be alone.