Taste of Tucson: Mantecadas have history going back to the Old World

Unlike traditional American-style muffins, which are true quick breads leavened only with baking powder (and sometimes baking soda), these lovely little loaves rely on both baking powder and yeast for their rise. The addition of yeast changes their texture from cake-like to bread-ish, which makes them surprising to our palates.

You’ll often find commercial versions of mantecadas in Latino markets — but the Mexican variety is usually offered in jolly red paper muffin cups. Like all commercial baked goods, the packaged kind are made with various preservatives to keep them from going moldy while they sit on the shelf.

When I set out to make them at home, I did a little bit of research into their history, however. I learned that in Spain, they’re usually baked in a square or rectangular paper pan. The deeply religious Spanish especially love that, when unfolded, the paper pans reveal a cross where the cupcake batter came in contact with the paper.

It appears that mantecadas originated in northwestern Spain, where butter is abundant and often used in baking. Traditionally, the little cakes are sprinkled with sugar before baking, to contribute a beautifully browned crackling crust.