Niacinamide, bakuchiol: The skincare ingredients derms swear by

Fun fact: the most popular global searches for skincare ingredients in 2022 had old favourite coconut oil at the top of the list with an average of 43,000 monthly searches. In second place was vitamin E, with 31,000 searches. But there are plenty of lesser-known ingredients out there.

Bakuchiol is a botanical active that’s an alternative to retinol. It is derived from the corylifolia plant and boosts collagen production and cell turnover. Another positive is that it won’t irritate the skin and is not sensitive to the sun. Try Omorovicza Miracle Facial Oil (mecca.com.au, $175).

Squalane (not to be confused with squalene, a naturally occurring lipid that’s deeply hydrating but can be too heavy for oily or acne-prone skin) is a moisturiser extracted from sugar cane that’s lightweight and well-tolerated by most skin types. “Think of squalane as a protective seal between your skin and environmental stressors,” dermatologist Dr Shereene Idriss says. “It also keeps skin supple and helps with elasticity by retaining moisture and reducing the amount of transepidermal water loss.” Try Biossance Squalane + Omega Repair Cream ($134).

We all hate skin redness and irritation so it’s Centella asiatica, also known as tiger grass, to the rescue. A botanical active, it has been nicknamed the “complexion calmer”, thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties. We love cult Korean brand Dr. Jart+ and its Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment ($58), which goes from green to beige and helps neutralise redness.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3), is a great multitasker that moisturises, evens skin tone and helps restore the skin’s sensitive barrier. It is particularly good when paired with retinol and exfoliating acids. Try Sisley Exfoliating Enzyme Mask ($160).

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Dermal therapist Douglas Pereira swears by peptides as an ingredient. “Peptides are amino acids that are the building blocks of certain proteins needed by the skin, like collagen and elastin,” he says. “Using a serum and moisturiser that contains peptides can lead to firmer, younger-looking skin, and treat pigmentation and uneven skin tone as well as stimulate collagen and elastin production.”

There is a wide array of peptides on the market. These include biomimetic tetrapeptide 30, which is good for treating uneven pigmentation; beta-white peptide for luminosity; and epidermal growth factor, a molecule that helps to repair damaged skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines by stimulating collagen production. Try Bioeffect EGF Serum Kit ($210).