Melbourne Fashion Festival shifts focus from the catwalk to the street

It’s more than a celebration of freedom. There’s something akin to elation that’s permeating everyone’s closets. Genevieve Smart – who is behind the Ginger & Smart label together with sister Alexandra – has seen an unexpected surge in colourful, bold prints.

“There has been a huge demand; we never seem to have enough. There are two groups: customers who want joyful prints during challenging times, to make them smile and to reward themselves. And then there are the customers who are working from home and want to stand out in group digital meetings. In Melbourne, we cultivated a strong following for our print and colour, especially at the peak of the 2021 Victorian lockdowns. I often receive emails from women who have found joy – and strength – in these pieces.”

But fashion’s collective shift is not merely about the clothes themselves. Carlucci thinks that the power of the traditional influencer waned considerably. “We saw the emergence of everyday people on social media who showed more of real life. There was a moment in the pandemic that was a peek behind the curtains, where we saw what was really happening, and there was a sense of realism and what life was really about. It became a lot more relatable, and a sense of community was found as well.”

Yolanda Finch adds that “the exclusive or boastful tone that might have been attached to part of the influencer industry wasn’t palatable any more. It was in really poor taste to demonstrate anything that was too glamorous. You had to be sympathetic … I think we’ve had to apply this compassion to everything.” But that didn’t mean that the beauty of fashion fell out of favour. “What is useful to us doesn’t have to be traditionally practical – seeing beautiful things can be useful as a mood lifter, and fashion has a place there.”

MFF will try to emphasise the community aspect in a number of ways, by hosting its Independent Runway program at Collingwood Yards, as well as relocating the entire festival from the Melbourne Museum Precinct to the more central CBD location of Federation Square.

Caroline Ralphsmith, a director on the MFF board (and CEO of Fed Square), says that the move makes it far more accessible for the public, “who come there anyway. It’s much more egalitarian. It’s not just about the runway; you can come to this place and feel the energy but make your own choices about what you step into. We hope we get people who are passing by and drop in, and people who come there as a destination.”

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One of the biggest new moves in the festival – which puts community at the centre – is its First Nations program, which includes the First Nations Runway, the KIN Fashion Exhibition and the Mob in Fashion project, a new initiative that offers opportunities to First Nations talent across all areas of fashion. Rhys Ripper, KIN Fashion Exhibition’s creative director, says that the notion of fashion becoming more community minded really resonates.

“That’s how we operate, that’s our culture – it’s all about community. That’s how we stay connected. It’s part of our way of being.” And that messaging is clear in the output of the KIN Fashion cohort. “There’s storytelling in our work – like any designer, it’s an expression of who we are, drawing inspiration from where we’re from. There’s a story that’s being told that’s been passed down from generation to generation.”

As for the festival’s ultimate goal for 2022, Finch summarises it this way: “It’s never been the intention of the festival to intimidate; it’s always been a unique fashion event for everyone to enjoy. But in the past couple of years, we realised we had a responsibility to help others get through a tough time. That can be picking up groceries for someone in iso, but I think when you are dressing to exude joy, that also helps the community. I feel as if I do my bit as a stylish Melburnian when I dress up to go to the office, then we will come back as Australia’s style capital very quickly.”

PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival’s Community Vibes, March 3-12. Free events include:

Arnsdorf X Rntr The clothing rental platform Rntr explains how customers can rent an Arnsdorf piece in an affordable way, and contribute to a more sustainable circular model.

Fashion Hound: Haute Grooming Tips with Uncanny Animals A certified fear-free groomer teaches you how to make your canine furball fashionable in this creative masterclass.

Verner X Yarra Youth The new breed of fashion folk will be let loose on items from designer Ingrid Verner’s archive, exploring aspects of printmaking, upcycling and reusing.

Stay Soft Autumn Market Fashion-focused stallholders will sell their wares in Collingwood Yards’ courtyard, with a soundtrack by Hope Street Radio and drinks, eats and coffee.