Kolkata’s The Olde House Eatery teases taste buds fond of European fare

What could be more delightful on a lazy Boxing Day afternoon than sampling old European dishes a Calcutta foodie has been savouring in Park Street’s Skyroom? This popular eatery is famous as much for its food as for its cheerful buzz.

If you were digging into the succulent pork chops served with a delish apple sauce at The Olde House Eatery in the tony neighbourhood of the city’s Southern Avenue, we doubt you’d choose anything over that redolent experience.

The ambience might not have the electricity of its Park Street predecessor during the Christmas Holiday season, but the warm vibes of the cosy quarters make for a perfect nook to loll the afternoon or evening away. The analogy or connect fits in thus just fine.

However, to constantly compare this charming 35-cover eatery, channelled on the lines of the quaint spaces you discover suddenly while taking walks in pretty European towns and cities, to Skyroom (same owners) would be a disservice to the magical experience The Olde House Eatery offers to foodies.

With interesting corners, painted walls and antique furniture adorning the space, this is more like a private chamber dishing out delectable flavours than what you would probably get in a hardcore commercial restaurant.

The personal touch is tangible because it was birthed from an old residential quarter of Manju Datta, one of the owners. Clearly, her aesthetics of keeping things homely and taking a leaf out of her European travels have rubbed off on the interiors.

In fact, if you are lucky to meet this amiable host, she might fill you in on why and how the place was conceived. It is a telling reminder of her love for food that she felt merits a revival.

Bringing back is the main premise for incorporating old dishes such as Chicken Sicilian, Cheesy Beckti with Tomato and Double Fungi in the menu. The chefs have got the hang of blending tastes and textures well.

When you cut into a medium-rare steak of Tournedos Rossini Pepper, the glorious juiciness of the meat comes together brilliantly with the aromatic sauce. Topped with a generous helping of chicken liver pate, it is the main course that satiates as well as comforts.

But before the mains are chosen, a bowl of asparagus and zucchini soup is an apt beginning to a wholesome meal. Intersperse it with the tart prawn cocktail that interestingly is flavoured with honey for a sweet aftertaste.

The deviled crab is beautifully balanced, with the cheese never overpowering the soft meat. The crunch of the crumbed coating of the Double Fungi counters the mushy texture of the mushrooms inside even as the tobacco-flavoured molten cheese unleashes a spicy thrill on the palate. The spaghetti is good too. 

Pastry chefs often falter while crafting the perfect meringue. But, the pavlova served for dessert was chewy yet soft. The tiramisu was tantalisingly bittersweet and the almond Creme Brulée, carried the flawless crack. However, it was the walnut biscuit tart topped with chocolate ganache that gave the meal a sweet ending.

Chicken a la Kiev

Ingredients

• 120 gm children breast

• 70 gm butter

• 30 gm chopped garlic

• 10 gm chopped parsley

Method

• Marinade the chicken breast with salt, pepper, garlic, thyme in 10 ml vegetable oil

• Hammer the chicken flat (1/3rd thin) and flatten

• Melt butter and add sautéed garlic, pepper and parsley. Mix and freeze.

• Roll butter into the chicken breast

• Dust lightly with flour

• Roll in the batter made with salt and pepper. 😯 percent flour and 20 percent cornflour mixed with 

• beaten egg.

• Crumb fry on medium heat