Forget rubbing apricot kernels on your skin – this is the new breed of exfoliators

Well-exfoliated skin is a beautiful thing. But the trick to getting your skin to sparkle is using the correct product. When we talk about exfoliators, we’re not talking about the rough scrubs we used as teenagers that contained chunks of apricot kernels. These days it’s about carefully balanced chemical exfoliators that help loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed and reveal newer skin cells beneath.

“The main goal around exfoliation is finding the best chemical exfoliant for your skin and using it regularly to avoid sensitivity,” says skin therapist James Vivian. His exfoliators of choice are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and lactic acid, which chemically remove dead skin cells as well as keep skin hydrated. His go-to is Viviology Liquid Exfoliant ($45) with a blend of AHAs and polyhydroxy acids.

When exfoliating, remember that overuse is not a good thing as it can lead to redness, irritation, breakouts and damage to the delicate skin mantel. The most you should exfoliate your face is three times a week, and Vivian suggests doing this in the evening for best results. If you are mad for daily exfoliation, try a salicylic acid-based cleanser like Mario Badescu Acne Facial Cleanser ($25).

If you are using retinol products (which also act as exfoliators), then you should skip acid-based exfoliants altogether.

If you have sensitive skin, start with polyhydroxy acids, lactic acid or mandelic acid, which are larger AHA molecules that do not penetrate as deeply into the skin and are less likely to cause irritation.

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“Salicylic acid, being more oil soluble in nature, is fabulous for thicker, oilier and breakout-prone skin types,” Vivian says. “Polyhydroxy acids and enzymes, such as papain and bromelain, are often best for sensitive skins, as they gently exfoliate the skin but with less risk for sensitivity.”

So, that’s the face sorted, how about the body? “The skin on our body is thicker than the skin on our face, so it needs more exfoliation to assist with concerns such as keratosis pilaris, ingrown hairs, flaking skin, rough knees and elbows,” Vivian says.

Granular exfoliants are good for buffing away dead skin cells on the body. Try Sunday Riley’s Charcoal Smoothie Jelly Body Scrub ($63). The black polish draws out impurities using a mix of both physical (biodegradable wax) and chemical (salicylic acid and lactic acid) exfoliation. For the finishing touch, we like a body moisturiser with beta hydroxy acid like Paula’s Choice Weightless Body Treatment ($43).