Archana Pidathala picks three recipes from her recently launched cookbook, Why Cook

Shree Mirji’s Hookosu Dindu Chutney
Cauliflower stem chutney

Discarded fruit and vegetable offcuts contribute significantly to food waste, and a recipe that offers a creative way to use them is definitely a keeper. Here, the cauliflower stem, which is as nutritious as the florets, is cooked till soft and ground to a creamy chutney with an array of everyday spices. It can be eaten spooned over pasta, on toast, with crudités and fritters, or with soft rice and ghee.

Serves 4

1 medium head cauliflower (500g)

1 gooseberry-sized ball of tamarind (15g), soaked in ¼ cup of hot water (60ml) for 15 mins

1 tsp vegetable oil

¼ tsp fenugreek seeds

1-inch-piece ginger, peeled and chopped

2 tbsp roasted gram

1 tsp jaggery powder

⅓ tightly-packed cup coriander leaves (10g), washed and chopped

salt 

Read more |On Why Cook and its many zero-waste recipes 

Tempering 

1 tsp vegetable oil

¼ tsp black mustard seeds

10-15 fresh curry leaves

Method

Place the cauliflower on a cutting board and run a knife around the main stem, separating the florets from the stem. Wash and roughly chop the stem. This should yield about one cup of chopped stem. 

Mash the tamarind by hand or with a fork, and sieve the liquid into a bowl. Squeeze the tamarind to extract as much of the liquid and pulp as possible. Reserve the tamarind extract, and discard the fibre and seeds left behind in the sieve.

Heat 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the fenugreek seeds and sauté for 20 seconds, until they turn a shade darker. Add the chopped cauliflower stem; cover and cook for 6-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pieces are soft, but not mushy. Once cool, grind along with the tamarind extract and the rest of the ingredients to a coarse paste in a mixer/food processor. Taste and add salt if required. Transfer the chutney to a bowl. 

To make the tempering, heat 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil in a small, heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds, and when they splutter, add the curry leaves and turn off the heat. Pour the tempering over the chutney and serve . 

Anita Tikoo’s Haak
| Photo Credit:
Balazs Glodi 

Anita Tikoo’s HaakKashmiri greens

Haak is a delicately flavoured leafy green (botanical name, brassica oleracea var. viridis), widely grown in Kashmir and is considered a cultural marker of Kashmiri cuisine. Haak can also refer to any dish of greens gently simmered and seasoned with asafoetida and red and green chillies. This recipe works well with radish/dandelion/collard/kohlrabi greens, amaranth leaves, spinach and even kai-lan (Chinese broccoli).

Serves 4

1-2 tbsp mustard oil

a generous pinch of asafoetida

a pinch of baking soda

600g haak, washed 

2 green chillies, cut in half

2 dried red chillies, broken in half

salt

Method

Heat the mustard oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat until just smoking. Allowing the mustard oil to heat to this level will reduce its pungency. Add the asafoetida and 2 cups of water. Be careful while adding water to the hot oil as it will spit. Keep a lid or splatter screen handy to immediately cover the pot. Bring the water to a boil and add the baking soda; it will foam up. The baking soda helps the greens retain their vivid colour. Add the greens and stir gently till they wilt. Add more water if the leaves aren’t fully submerged. Add the green and red chillies and salt. Turn the heat down to low, cover and simmer till the haak is tender, about 10-12 minutes. To check if the greens are ready, take a leaf from the pan and taste — it should be tender to the bite. Serve with steamed rice and a bowl of yoghurt. 

Arundhati Nag’s Batata Saung
| Photo Credit:
Balazs Glodi 

Arundhati Nag’s Batata Saung
Potato curry with dried red chillies, coconut and tamarind
Batata saung is made by simmering soft chunks of potatoes in a classic Saraswat masala of dried Byadagi chillies, tamarind and coconut. Byadagi chillies lend mild heat, smoky notes and a robust red colour to the dish, while the potato and coconut give it a creamy texture. If replacing Byadagi with a fierier chilli, adjust the spice level in the masala to your taste.

Serves 4

500g potatoes, washed and halved
Masala
1 small lime-sized ball of tamarind (20g), soaked in ¼ cup of hot water (60ml) for 15 mins
8-10 dried Byadagi/red chillies (adjust per spice tolerance)

2-3 tbsp grated fresh coconut

3 tbsp coconut oil, divided

3 onions (150g), finely chopped

½ tsp turmeric powder

salt

Method

Place the potatoes in a pressure cooker and add enough water to cover them. Pressure cook to 3-4 whistles or until the potatoes are cooked through. Once the pressure settles, open the lid and drain. When cool enough to handle, peel and break the potatoes into chunks with your hands. 

While the potatoes are cooking, make the masala. 

Mash the tamarind by hand or with a fork, and sieve the liquid into a bowl. Squeeze the tamarind to extract as much liquid and pulp as possible. Reserve the tamarind extract, and discard the fibre and seeds left behind in the sieve. 

Dry roast the dried red chillies in a pan over medium heat until fragrant and crisp. Take care not to char the chillies. Grind the roasted red chillies, tamarind extract and coconut to a thick, smooth paste in a mixer/food processor. Add a splash of water while grinding if required.

Heat 2 tablespoons of coconut oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add half the chopped onions and fry until they turn brown, about 5 minutes. Take the browned onion out with a slotted spoon and set aside. To the same pan, add another tablespoon of coconut oil. Add the remaining chopped onions, turmeric powder and salt. Fry for 2-3 minutes. Add the potato chunks and freshly ground masala. Add ¼ cup of water, mix and cook for 5-6 minutes till you have a thick gravy. Add the browned onion, mix and cook for another couple of minutes. Taste and add salt if needed. Serve hot with puris or rice and dal. 

The gravy tends to thicken as it cools. To thin the gravy, stir in 3-4 tablespoons of hot water and bring the batata saung to a gentle simmer before serving.

An extract from Why Cook