How to get rid of grass growing in garden beds
“I am seeing grass growing in my garden beds with perennials and groundcovers and am finding it frustrating to get rid of it. The grass may have gotten a start in my beds after I seeded my lawn last fall. It is difficult to pull out and seems to consistently come back. What is the best way to get rid of it? It seems to be spreading.”
— Alfredo Ramirez, Evanston, Ill.
Grass is difficult to eradicate once it gets established in the crowns of perennials and in beds of groundcovers. One option is to keep pulling out the grass, beginning early in spring when you first see it and continuing throughout the entire growing season. The best time to do this is when the soil is moist, as it will be easier to get the roots out, and the more roots that are removed, the better the results.
This will take lots of patience and persistence to be successful. In time, the grass should weaken and eventually disappear. A weeder with a forked end or a trowel is a good tool to help get the roots out. A weeder will work better when space is more constricted and will do less damage to surrounding plants.
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Another option is to lift all the perennials infested with grass out of the bed and carefully remove any grass from the root balls of the plants. Then dig the remaining clumps of grass out of the bed and replant the perennials. Monitor for any grass that was missed during this process that sprouts again over the coming weeks.
This work can still be done now with most perennials, though the window of time is closing. You can also wait until the weather is cooler in early September or next spring before using this technique to reduce stress on the plants. If you decide to wait, then pull the grass as best you can and do not allow it to go to seed.
There are herbicides that will selectively kill grass in mixed plantings. Ornamec is an example of an herbicide that selectively kills grasses and can be applied over some ornamentals. Read the label to determine if it can be used safely with the plants in your garden. If any of the plants are not listed on the label, it is best to avoid using this product for the area. Or, you can test it first on a small section to make sure it will not kill or damage desirable plants. The best time to apply this product is when the grass is actively growing in spring and fall. These products will be less effective in the heat of summer, when the grass is not actively growing.
Glyphosate, a broad-spectrum, nonselective herbicide, will kill the grass, as well as your garden plants. You can treat the grass growing the farthest away from your desirable plants by spraying the grass carefully on a calm day.
To treat the grass growing close to the garden plants, put on rubber gloves first and then a cheap cotton glove second. Using two fingers on the cotton glove, dip into the herbicide and carefully wipe the blades of grass, avoiding any drips on adjacent garden plants.
It is important to read and follow all instructions on labels whenever applying any chemical treatments.
For more plant advice, contact the Plant Information Service at the Chicago Botanic Garden at [email protected]. Tim Johnson is senior director of horticulture at the Chicago Botanic Garden.
Try these 6 tips to save money in your yard
Remember: Seeds are cheaper than plants
Many vegetables are easy to grow from seed, and a $2 seed packet is a lot cheaper than a full-sized plant or buying vegetables from the store. Try tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, beans, lettuce and beets from seed.
They’re easy, even for beginning gardeners. Start them indoors under lights for a head start, or sow directly in the garden. If you’re nervous about starting from seed, seedlings purchased from a nursery are typically only slightly more expensive.
Save money on soil
A large container can be expensive to fill with fresh potting soil.
To save money, place one or more empty nursery pots upside-down in the bottom. Not only does it reduce the amount of soil needed, it reduces weight, too.
Invest in a mulching mower
A good mulching mower pays for itself in several ways. First, you don’t have to pay to have grass clippings bagged and hauled to a composting facility. Second, returning clippings to your lawn is like free fertilizer. Over the course of a full season you’ll return about as much nitrogen as one full-strength feeding.
And when fall comes, do the same with fallen leaves.
Inspect your sprinklers
Long watering is an expensive proposition in the summertime. To make sure your sprinklers are operating efficiently, have an irrigation expert do a walk-through water audit and suggest ways to reduce water bills.
If you have an automatic irrigation system, use sensors to make it more efficient. They can help you water exactly as much as needed and no more.
Trade perennials with other gardeners
Mature perennials in your garden are a valuable resource. Most perennials can be dug up and divided, yielding two, three or even four splits. And each of these can be replanted elsewhere. Even better, trade with other gardeners, swapping divisions of your perennial for varieties in their gardens that you’d like to try.
Plant a tree for a more efficient house
If you have a hot western wall exposed to the afternoon sun, try planting a tree that will shade it. Not only can it add to the overall aesthetic of your surrounding yard, the shade it throws can significantly reduce your cooling costs.
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