Ecology, Ukraine and nuns inspire eclectic Paris fashion

Here are some highlights of Thursday’s fall-winter 2022 ready-to-wear shows.

CHLOE’S TEXTURE-RICH ECOLOGY

The Uruguay-born Chloe designer has made ecology the front and center of her tenure of Chloe thus far. Thursday’s show was no exception set on the sand swept interiors of a Parisian greenhouse and designed in the colors of the climate crisis. Bright tangerine orange, vermilions and reds against blacks evoked a forest destroyed by fire, while pale hues in whites, creams and beiges symbolized melting glaciers and drought. The pared down silhouettes — that played on gently contrasting textures — also drew inspiration from the environment via cinema. The muse of Franco Zeffirelli’s 1973 movie “Brother Son, Sister Moon” chronicling the life of the Patron Saint of Ecologists spawned puff sleeves, simple lines, scallop motifs and body-hugging knits. There were some great moments, such as a black leather cut-away dress with ethnic discs on the torso, but the aesthetic seemed to lack energy at times. Was it perhaps because of the energy devoted — admirably — to vaunting its low eco footprint? Again, thanks to Hearst’s eco-conscious mantra, Chloe was able to proudly say that it had reached its annual target of 56% lower impact materials within the ready-to-wear show.